Going on desert hikes, kayaking the Colorado River and having proper downtime became a reminder for Lauren Murphy that fitness doesn’t need to be perfect – it just needs trust, movement and space to do things your own way
Word and photography: Lauren Murphy
My legs felt wobbly as I stepped onto my first stretch of red rock. I hesitated for a second, unsure of my footing, but, without saying anything, Cole (my husband) reached out his hand and helped me up. A few steps later, the nerves settled, and my body felt steadier – and that quiet confidence stayed with me long after my feet hit the ground.
It felt like a good way to begin our time in Nevada as a family. Not with a plan to smash everything and prove something, but by moving in a way that asked for patience and trust – and a willingness to slow down when we needed to.
Day 1: Valley of Fire
Less than an hour from the Las Vegas Strip, Valley of Fire State Park felt like a complete shift. One minute you’re driving in traffic, noise and neon, and then the road opens up and the desert takes over – red rock, wide skies, and a sense that things are about to slow down.
We spent the day dipping in and out of hikes along the Fire and Water Loop, choosing the shorter trails rather than committing to one long route. The White Domes Trail (1.1 miles) felt like a good place to start – it was manageable, but still impressive, with stops at the Fire Wave and Elephant Rock that showed us the vast history and ancient petroglyphs that were carved into the sandstone thousands of years ago.
We didn’t rush anything, and some trails were shorter than planned. We adapted as we went, and we stopped often. But it was the variety of hikes that made the Valley of Fire work so well for us as a family – adventurous enough to feel exciting, but easy to adapt to suit our needs (and the boys were completely absorbed, scrambling over rocks, finding their own way, and being fully in the moment).
Lunch was at Inside Scoop, a relaxed local spot about a 30-minute drive away (having our own car made a huge difference). We then headed back towards Las Vegas, and checked into Durango Casino & Resort, away from the Strip, which felt like a good balance after a full day outdoors. In the evening, we visited the Neon Museum for a spot of culture. Walking through the old signs and fragments of past casinos after a day spent in the desert was such a contrast, but it worked.
Day 2: Red Rock Canyon
Red Rock Canyon sits just west of Las Vegas, with a 13-mile scenic loop to explore. We pulled over anytime something caught our eye, and stuck to the shorter hikes, turning back when we’d had enough. The boys moved confidently over the rocks (often faster than Colin and I) while I took my time and stopped when I needed to – but there was no pressure to keep up. It felt genuinely freeing.
We slowed things down further at Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. Once a working ranch and retreat in the early 1900s, it’s now a calm, green space with historic buildings and shaded picnic areas. We brought our own lunch and sat under the trees, taking a proper pause in the middle of the day.
In the afternoon, we visited Goodsprings Ghost Town. It’s small and quiet, with its weathered buildings and the historic Pioneer Saloon at its heart, and it offered us a glimpse into Nevada’s past that we could take in our own stride.
Day 3: Boulder City
Day three took us to Boulder City, southeast of Las Vegas. Built in the 1930s to house workers constructing the Hoover Dam, it’s a lot slower and feels more grounded than being in the city.
At the Nevada State Railroad Museum, we joined a rail bike tour along the same tracks once used to transport workers and materials to the dam. Riding together felt like a proper team effort – Cole controlled the speed from the back, while Carter and I navigated from the front. The eight-mile round trip was relaxed and very manageable, with a stop halfway for snacks and to take in the desert scenery. It wasn’t just a day to stay active, it was a way to really take in our surroundings.
Nearby, the Nature Discovery Trail offered a short walk with desert animal sculptures and views over Boulder City from the top – it was another shift of pace in a place that steeped in ways to get active.
That afternoon, we also visited Nelson Ghost Town – one of the highlights of the trip. Set within one of the oldest and richest gold-mining areas in southern Nevada, it feels like stepping back in time, with rusting cars, original buildings and scattered relics onsite (it’s easy to see why it’s been used as a filming location so often).
In the evening, we checked into Green Valley Ranch Resort. Spacious, calm and comfortable, it felt like a good place to stop and rest for a while – and our adjoining suites worked perfectly as a family, with dinner at Hank’s Fine Steaks feeling relaxed, indulgent and truly well-earned.
Somewhere between the rail tracks and the desert trails we walked during the day, something shifted for me. For years, I’d told myself I wasn’t fit enough or thin enough for adventures like this – but I realised we weren’t ‘training’, we were living and moving. We took breaks, and we were helping each other.
Day 4: Colorado River
Day four was all about the water. We were collected by Ryan from River Dogz LV Tour and were driven to Willow Beach Marina on the Colorado River. The calm water, canyon walls and a sense of stillness hit straight away (even if you didn’t fancy a tour, you could quite happily come here with a picnic and just sit for a while).
Although I’ve kayaked plenty of times before, this was our first time doing it together as a family. We opted for two tandem kayaks (jokingly renamed ‘divorce rafts’) and the boys shared one, while Colin and I took the other – which felt like a tiny ‘wow’ moment in itself. They’re grown up now. They can do their own thing – and they did.
Colin took the lead while I sat at the front, navigating (and taking photos whenever the scenery demanded it). Ryan guided us through Black Canyon, sharing stories along the way and stopping at the historic River Gauger’s Home for snacks before continuing on.
By the time we reached Emerald Cove, the boys were completely in sync, racing off to explore, spotting wildlife and occasionally competing with other kayakers. And while there were a few navigation mishaps, they mostly worked brilliantly as a team.
The three-and-a-half-hour tour passed quickly, and being on the water brought a deep sense of calm. After Christmas, and a few full-on days, paddling quietened everything down – and I didn’t realise how much noise I’d been carrying until it stopped.
Back at Green Valley Ranch, we leaned fully into recovery. Robes on, we headed straight to the heated outdoor hot tub – and the bubbles did their job.
Dinner that evening was at Bottiglia. Big plates of pasta, shared between us – and always the right choice after a busy day.
Final day: Full circle at Hoover Dam
Our final morning was spent at Hoover Dam. Seeing it in real life is something else – the scale only really hits when you’re standing there, concrete stretching across the canyon, looking at the Colorado River flowing beneath. After learning about the railroad in Boulder City and kayaking on the water that flows from here, visiting the dam felt like everything coming together.
The boys loved standing with one foot in Nevada and the other in Arizona, crossing a one-hour time difference in just a few steps. It amused them to no end – those small moments that brought the history to life.
And after the day before on the water, this slower pace felt right to finish on. There was no rush – just the time to take it all in.
Final thoughts
What surprised me the most was how well everything fitted together. One day we were hiking through desert silence, the next kayaking through canyon walls, while Las Vegas was never far away. From our base, the day trips felt manageable, rather than exhausting.
Las Vegas was a place that offered access to outdoor adventure alongside moments of spectacle. Seeing landmarks like The Strat or the Sphere reminded us how close the city always was, even when we spent most of our time outdoors.
And travelling at the start of the year, while feeling intentional, also allowed the cooler temperatures to make movement easier. We let go of rigid itineraries and everyday could unfold naturally. We chose shorter hikes, changed plans, took breaks, and leaned into rest without guilt.
I didn’t come home fitter in the way I once measured it – I came home stronger in ways that mattered. I feel more confident in my body, more present with my family, and more comfortable trusting what feels right. Nevada gave us space to move, to rest and to reset – and that balance stayed with me.
Takeaways for active travel in Nevada
- You don’t need a rigid itinerary for a trip to feel purposeful. We had a loose plan and on most days we adjusted it depending on energy levels and what looked good in the moment.
- Shorter hikes and flexible plans can be just as rewarding. We weren’t chasing the longest trail for a sense of victory, we were soaking it up together.
- Snacks really help. Having something easy in the car or in a backpack meant we could refuel mid-activity without everyone hitting that sudden ‘I’m starving’ wall.
- Hydration and sun protection matter year-round in the desert. Even in winter, the air felt dry and our skin and lips dried out quickly, so water, sunscreen and lip balm were non-negotiables.
- Recovery is part of the experience, not a reward. A hot tub, a slower afternoon, pasta for dinner… it all helped us enjoy it properly.
Where we stayed
- Durango Casino & Resort (off-Strip): a great base for day trips and early starts, and a brilliant place to come back to after dusty, outdoorsy days (https://durangoresort.com/)
- Green Valley Ranch Resort: spacious, calm, and ideal for switching into recovery mode, with newly remodelled Executive King Suites (https://greenvalleyranch.com/)
Getting there
- Fly with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Las Vegas
- For route ideas and planning, https://travelnevada.com/ is a genuinely helpful starting point
